Tubeless tyre sealant - is it worth it?

First puncture halfway through the ride. Inner tube ruined, and still 20 kilometres to home. Sound familiar? Tubeless tyres with sealant offer a solution that makes such situations a thing of the past. But what exactly do sealants provide, and for whom does the tubeless system genuinely make sense?

What is a tubeless system and how does sealant work?

Tubeless tyres function without an inner tube. Instead, there's an airtight tyre that seals directly against the rim. Sounds simple, but the entire system requires three things: a compatible rim, a tyre marked "tubeless ready", and sealant.

Sealant is a liquid latex poured into the tyre interior. After inflation, it spreads across the entire inner surface. When a puncture occurs, the sealant flows out with the air and… plugs the hole. Within seconds, it forms a flexible, airtight seal.

The key point: it genuinely works. Small punctures (up to approximately 5–6 mm) are sealed automatically whilst riding. There's no need to even stop.

Why have cyclists switched to tubeless?

Professionals don't adopt new solutions without good reason. The tubeless system delivers real benefits that become apparent from the very first ride.

Fewer punctures = less stress

With an inner tube system, any sharp stone, piece of glass, or thorn can end the ride. The tube punctures instantly, and air is lost within seconds. With sealant, the situation is entirely different. Most punctures become irrelevant — a stone penetrates, the sealant flows out and plugs the hole, and riding continues, often without even realising anything happened.

For MTB and gravel cyclists who regularly ride over sharp stones, roots, and loose gravel, this represents a significant improvement. Instead of repairing tubes every other outing, weeks can pass without any issues.

Lower pressure = better comfort and grip

Tubeless tyres can be inflated to lower pressures than traditional setups. Why? Because there's no risk of pinch flats — the damage that occurs when an inner tube is compressed between the tyre and rim.

Lower pressure means better tyre conformity to the terrain, translating into improved grip — particularly on corners and in mud. It also provides greater riding comfort, as the tyre absorbs impacts rather than transmitting them to hands and back. Paradoxically, on uneven terrain, lower pressure can even deliver faster times, as wheels don't bounce off stones and roots.

Professional road cyclists use tubeless in races such as Paris-Roubaix (notorious for its cobblestones) precisely for this reason. Lower pressure allows them to ride faster and more safely.

Reduced rotating mass

Eliminating the inner tube saves approximately 80–100 g per wheel. This may not sound impressive, but it's rotating mass — every gram is felt during acceleration and on climbs. This is particularly important in mountain biking, where dynamics and agility matter.

When does sealant work well, and when doesn't it?

The tubeless system isn't a universal solution to all problems. It's worth understanding where it excels and where its limitations lie.

Sealant handles small punctures up to 5–6 mm superbly — it works instantly, and pressure loss is often unnoticeable. It also seals slow air loss from porous rims or micro-damage. When riding in challenging terrain full of stones, thorns, and sharp branches, these threats cease to be problematic.

However, there are several situations where even the best sealant won't help. Large tears above 6–8 mm are too substantial — the liquid flows out before it can solidify. Sidewall cuts also cannot be sealed, as the sidewall is too thin and flexible. If the rim is bent or cracked, no liquid will repair that.

Important: Even the best sealant doesn't replace a spare inner tube. On longer rides, it's always advisable to carry a tube and tyre levers — in case of more serious damage.

How to choose a quality sealant

Not all sealants are equal. The market offers cheap solutions that dry out after a month, and professional products used by competitors. The differences are considerable, and it's worth knowing what to look for.

Ammonia-free synthetic latex

Ammonia is a common ingredient in cheap sealants. The problem? An aggressive odour that can be unbearable during installation, potential allergic reactions, and faster liquid drying. OC1 Tubeless Sealant uses ammonia-free synthetic latex — it's hypoallergenic, without unpleasant odour, whilst being more effective and maintaining its properties longer.

Ability to work at various pressures

Road bikes operate at high pressure (5–7 bar), whilst MTB and gravel use low pressure (1.5–3 bar). A quality sealant must function in both conditions, as the sealing mechanism changes depending on pressure. OC1 Tubeless Sealant is designed precisely for this — it works equally effectively in racing tubular tyres at high pressure as in downhill or gravel tyres at low pressure.

Sealing porous tyres and rim tape

Some tyres and rims aren't 100% airtight — they have micro-porosities through which air escapes. Professional sealant adheres to the entire tyre interior and blocks these micro-leaks. OC1 Tubeless Sealant creates a thin, flexible layer across the entire inner surface, maintaining pressure for many weeks without needing to top up.

How often should sealant be replaced?

Sealant isn't permanent. The latex gradually dries out, forming clumps inside the tyre. After several months, it stops effectively sealing new punctures.

Recommended replacement is every 3–6 months with regular use. If the bike has been stored in a garage over winter, replace the liquid before the season. When pressure drops faster than usual, this indicates the sealant has lost its effectiveness. Adding fresh liquid every 2–3 months is good practice that extends the entire system's effectiveness.

How much sealant is needed?

The quantity depends primarily on tyre width:

• Road (23–28 mm): 30–40 ml per tyre

• Gravel (35–45 mm): 50–70 ml per tyre

• MTB XC (2.0–2.3"): 70–90 ml per tyre

• MTB Trail/Enduro (2.3–2.5"): 90–120 ml per tyre

• MTB DH/Plus (2.5"+): 120–150 ml per tyre

OC1 Tubeless Sealant is available in sizes suited to different needs. The 140 ml bottle is ideal for road or gravel bikes — sufficient for 2–3 tyres. The 450 ml size suits MTB bikes and covers 3–4 tyres. For those with several bikes, 950 ml provides enough liquid for an entire season. Workshops and teams can benefit from the professional 5 l container.

Switching to tubeless — what you need to know

Installing a tubeless system isn't complicated, but it requires appropriate components and a bit of patience during the first installation. Prepare properly, and the entire operation takes approximately 30 minutes per bike.

Compatible rims and tyres marked "tubeless ready" are essential — standard ones won't seal properly. Additionally, rim tape is needed to cover spoke holes, along with tubeless-specific valves with appropriate sealing. Sealant is obviously essential. A pump with a chamber or compressor significantly eases the first inflation, though it isn't absolutely necessary.

First installation — step by step:

1. Apply tubeless tape to the rim, ensuring there are no air bubbles

2. Install the valve, tightening it appropriately

3. Mount the tyre on the rim (without sealant for now!)

4. Inflate firmly — the tyre must "pop" onto the rim and seal

5. Release the air and remove the valve core

6. Pour the appropriate amount of sealant through the valve (the easiest method) or through a partially removed tyre

7. Reinstall the valve core and inflate to target pressure

8. Rotate and shake the wheel for a few minutes — the sealant must spread evenly across the entire inner surface

During the first inflation, higher pressure may be needed for the tyre to seat properly on the rim. Characteristic "pops" will be heard as the tyre snaps into place. This is normal and indicates everything is proceeding correctly.

Tubeless riding — practical tips

Already running a tubeless system? A few simple habits will keep it working reliably throughout the season.

Check pressure regularly, ideally before every longer ride. Tubeless tyres lose air more slowly than tubed setups, but they do lose air — this is normal. If the bike has stood for several days in one position, the sealant will have settled at the bottom. Before riding, rotate the wheels a few times so the liquid spreads evenly.

The tubeless system offers tremendous convenience, but always carry a spare inner tube. In case of serious damage, it weighs only 100 g and can save an entire outing. Simply remove the valve core, insert the tube, and inflate — then continue riding.

Don't wait until the sealant dries out completely. Every 2–3 months, add 20–30 ml of fresh liquid through the valve. This extends the system's lifespan and avoids unpleasant surprises on the trail.

Is switching to tubeless worthwhile?

The answer depends primarily on how and where riding takes place.

For those who regularly head off-road — MTB, gravel, enduro — the tubeless system is an excellent choice. Frequent punctures cease to be problematic, the difference in grip and comfort becomes noticeable, and riding becomes more confident and enjoyable. This is particularly valuable for those who like to ride fast and confidently in challenging terrain.

Conversely, if routes are mainly urban tarmac and punctures occur once a year or less, inner tubes remain a perfectly reasonable option. This also applies if current rims aren't "tubeless ready" and investment in new ones isn't planned. The system works superbly, but it isn't essential for everyone.

For most active cyclists — particularly MTB and gravel riders — tubeless with quality sealant transforms the riding experience. Fewer punctures, less stress, more enjoyment from cycling.

Summary

Tubeless tyre sealants aren't marketing hype — they're a proven solution that professional competitors have used for years. Fewer punctures, better grip, greater comfort — these are real benefits noticeable from the very first ride. The key to success is quality sealant. OC1 Tubeless Sealant is an ammonia-free synthetic latex that works at both high and low pressures, adhering to the entire tyre interior.